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Mexico!
Day 8
22 October 2006

Ride into Creel.  Break to see church with bullet holes in bell tower.  Nice twisties again.  Wild horses.  Dinner met Ibarra from ADV... drew us a friggin' awesome map for tomorrow's ride.  Changed oil in hotel parking lot at 36,550 miles.

Day 8... was another fantastic day of riding... this time to Creel and the Copper Canyon.

The Copper Canyon is actually several large canyons four times larger than the Grand Canyon of the United States.  It's pretty much been the #1 place I've wanted to go on a motorcycle since reading ride reports about the area on ADV.  I was finally on my way.

After our group breakfast, we once again loaded up the motorcycles and headed south to Creel. 

Our first stop (aside from the PEMEX station) was to check out an old church, which apparently had bullet holes in the bell tower.  Now you'd think I would have taken a picture of the outside of the church and the bullet holes, but no... I just took a picture of the inside.  You'd also think I would have written down the name of the town where the church was located.  Nope.

When I started the bike in the morning, the oil was cool (and presumably thicker), and the ticking in my engine was gone.  But, when we stopped for gas, the ticking had returned (when the oil was hot)... and just as loud as before.

The oil in the reservoir pretty much looked like jet-black coffee from a gas station that had been left in the sun for a week.  I was hoping changing the oil in Creel would fix the issue. 

So while the church was indeed beautiful, I was actually racking my brain trying to figure out what was up with my bike. 

Pressing onward to Creel, we once again found ourselves in the twisties, and once again the groups separated... normal-riding people and the stupids (I guess at this point there should be no question as to which group I had aligned myself with?).  Good times!

The road to Creel took us through some beautiful scenery.  We rode through the plains before getting into the mountains as we climbed to our destination at 8,000' elevation.


An apple a day.

At some point I passed these two walking down the road...

Since there were no other riders anywhere around me, I turned around and asked if I could take their picture.  They smiled and said yes until the camera cam out... then I got the Grant Wood faces.  I only wished I'd packed a pitchfork...

As we neared Creel, we saw much more livestock along the road, including many magnificent-looking horses.  I felt sorry for the folks in my mirrors.  My Two Brothers exhaust literally scares the crap out of every farm animal in existence, and they sure do run in random directions after I ride by...

We finally arrived in Creel in the late afternoon...


Finally!

After some pretty pathetic whining, I talked Maralan into giving me a bottom-floor room to make hauling my gear into the room less strenuous.  Hauling all my crap in and out of hotel rooms was getting old.

We unloaded the bikes and set out to explore Creel.  Beer and ice cream was our first mission (I guess that's really two missions).  We found a place that sold cones; vanilla, por favor.  We also found an Internet cafe that would be handy, and eventually we finally found a restaurant that served beer.

Later in the evening at dinner, Brewer spotted a guy eating alone wearing a Horizons Unlimited T-shirt, so Brewer went over to talk to him.  It turned out to be Ibarra from ADV, and he and Brewer chatted about places to to go ride.  But... not only did he tell us places to go, he drew us the most accurate hand-sketched map ever...

We asked him if he only had one day to explore, what would he do?  He told us to head to El Divisadero where the view of the canyon was fantastic.  Then he said to head into San Rafael.  The road would become dirt and we'd want to look for the signs to Bahuichivo and Urique.  Once we got to Cerocahui, we'd pass the train station, and continue on to Urique.

Hell Yeah!

We told him how much we appreciated the map and directions and how we looked forward to meeting him again.  Thanks again Ibarra!

I polled the group on how many would be coming with us on this excursion... 4.  So off to the Internet cafe I went to make 4 copies of the map (OK 5... I wanted one for next time in case mine got mangulated).

Back at the hotel, the ticking noise was still on my mind... time to change the oil. 

I had about a quart and Prof had a new quart, which I bought from him.  The little bit of remaining oil I needed I begged from Vegas.

A few weeks before this trip, my skid plate (engine guard, whatever...) had arrived from TouraTech.  The number one design flaw was that it didn't have a hole to access the oil drain plug.  Being a forward-thinking kind of guy, I fixed that problem before I installed it...


Changing the oil should be a piece of cake since it will drain through the hole. 

I retrieved the appropriate tools from the pannier and went to work...

I strategically cut the top off of an empty liter-and-a-half water bottle.  The bottom of the bottle would catch the oil under the drain hole in the skid plate, and the top of the bottle would be the funnel for the new oil.

After draining the upper reservoir and pouring it into a second bottle, I went to work on the sump. 

As I removed the drain plug, the design flaw of my fix to the design flaw of the skid plate became obvious.  I had not accounted for changing oil when the bike was on a slight rearward incline.  As the oil came pouring out of the engine, half of the flowing oil wasn't going through my perfectly drilled hole; it was now dripping from the rear of the skid plate and creating what would later be called Exxon Valdez.

Crap!

I caught as much as I could, but for the most part, the majority of it found its way onto the ground.  I "found" a towel and began cleaning up the spill.  Of course my buddies were laughing their asses off as the cameras came out.

I cleaned up as much as I could from the ground...

The rest...

Well, I looked at it like this...

The finely crushed stones in the driveway looked a lot like the kitty-litter stuff mechanics use in their shops to clean up oil spills, so why shouldn't it work in this application?  Besides, there are several POS cars in Mexico that leak more oil than this at lunch while parked in front of the taco stand.

Since the oil change was completed under the cover of darkness, I assumed no one would be thrilled if I were to start the engine and let the Two Brothers sing their song at what was now the middle of the night.  It would have to wait.

After a hot shower, I climbed into bed under the thick warm blankets hoping the ticking noise would be a distant memory.  The plan was to roll at 0700 the next morning...

Mileage = 262.

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